No-Start Problem Repairs in Glendale, CA
Be confident to start your engine problem-free.
You get in your car, turn the key, and nothing happens. Your car won't start. You try again, first in "Park" then in "Neutral" - nothing. You have plenty of gas in the tank, so you rule out that obvious possibility. What are you to do? Don't panic. There is a solution, but it's best you leave it to our trained experts to diagnose the problem than growing more frustrated figuring it out alone.
Our mechanics understand how to repair any no-start problem caused by a dead battery; bad starter motor; faulty switch, relay, or electronic control module; and/or anti-theft security system.
If you can't start your engine, you can't drive to our shop in Glendale, CA. But you can call us at 818-241-2020. We'll ask you a series of questions that will help us further determine no-start problem repairs when you eventually bring your vehicle in. For example, when you turn the ignition ON before starting the car, we'll ask you:
- Do the instrument panel lights come on?
- Does the "Check Engine" light come on?
- Does the "Security" light flash or stay on?
- Does the "Battery" light flash or stay on?
And when you turn the ignition key to the START position, we'll ask you:
- Does the starter crank?
- Does the starter crank very slowly?
- Do you hear a click (or repeated clicking)?
Every answer presents many possible reasons why your engine doesn't start and where we need to look further.
While it's possible your no-start problem may stem from a bad fuel system component, more often it's from the vehicle's security system or system electronics. No-start problem repairs usually involve the replacement of one or more of these components:
- Starter Motor
- Battery Cables
- Starter Relay (Starter Solenoid)
- Neutral Safety Switch
- Ignition Switch
- Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
- Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
- Control Modules (e.g. BCM, PCM)
Troubleshooting auto starting problems oftens begins by testing the battery voltage. Ideally we want to see 12.6 volts, but a min. of 12.4 volts. Next, we'll perform a battery load test. When we activate the load, we don't want it to fall below 9 volts. Last, we check the battery connections to make sure the terminals aren't loose or corroded.
If we find the battery terminal connections are clean and tight, and the battery cables okay, we'll continue our troubleshooting by looking at the vehicle's starter relay or neutral safety switch. We'll perform a cranking voltage drop test on the positive battery terminal (no more than .7 volts) and another on the negative battery terminal (no more than .25 volts).
If these tests produce results within proper specifications, we'll then check if your engine can rotate, because if the engine crankshaft can't rotate, the starter can't rotate, and probably a sign there's a mechanical failure inside the engine itself.
Last, we'll inspect the starter assembly and make sure the bendix is properly aligned to engage or disengage with the engine's flywheel. We often find with a worn bendix and flywheel, the starter motor grinds when cranking.